Buying a Used Caravan in Australia: The Complete Inspection Checklist

When buying a used caravan in Australia, start with a PPSR check to confirm it is not encumbered or written off, then inspect for water damage (soft walls, stains, mould smell), check the chassis and running gear, and confirm the ATM, Tare and GTM weights legally match your tow vehicle's towing capacity. Always verify paperwork before paying.

A used caravan can be a brilliant buy or an expensive mistake, and the difference usually comes down to how carefully you inspect it. Hidden water damage, a rusted chassis or a van that is simply too heavy for your tow vehicle can turn a dream trip into a costly headache. This complete inspection checklist walks you through every stage, from the paperwork you should run before you even visit, to the appliances you must test on the day. Work through it methodically and you will buy with confidence. When you are ready, you can browse caravans for sale on Prime Vehicles Hub and put it into practice.

Before you inspect

The smartest checks happen before you turn up with cash. A few minutes of research can save you thousands and rule out vans that are not worth your time.

Run a PPSR (encumbrance) check

The Personal Property Securities Register tells you whether the caravan still has money owing on it, has been reported stolen, or has been recorded as a written-off or repairable write-off. If a van is encumbered and you buy it, the finance company can repossess it even though you paid the seller. A caravan PPSR check costs only a few dollars and needs the VIN or chassis number.

• Confirm there is no finance owing (no security interest registered).
• Check the stolen-vehicle and written-off registers.
• Match the VIN on the report to the VIN stamped on the van.
• If anything is unclear, walk away — it is not worth the risk.

Not sure how it works? Run a PPSR check first before you go any further.

Set your budget honestly

Beyond the purchase price, budget for registration transfer, insurance, a possible gas certificate, new tyres if they are aged, bearing servicing and any repairs the inspection uncovers. Leaving a few thousand dollars of contingency is sensible on an older van.

Decide on-road vs off-road

Match the van to how you will actually travel. A lightweight on-road pop-top is ideal for sealed-highway touring and easier to tow, while a full off-road van with independent suspension, raised clearance and dust sealing suits remote and corrugated tracks but weighs more. Buying the wrong type is a common and expensive regret.

Exterior and body

The outside of the van tells you most of what you need to know about water damage and structural health. Inspect on a dry day in good light and run your hands over surfaces, not just your eyes.

Water damage red flags

Water ingress is the number one killer of caravans, and repairs can run into many thousands. Knowing what to look for buying a used caravan starts here.

• Press firmly on the walls — any soft or spongy spots mean the timber frame or substrate is rotting.
• Look for stains, streaks or discolouration on internal and external walls, especially below windows and around seams.
• Trust your nose — a musty or mouldy smell on opening the door is a serious warning sign, even if you can't see damage.
• Check for delamination on fibreglass or composite walls — bubbling, rippling or panels that have separated from the frame.
• Look for fresh paint, sealant or trim that may be hiding repairs.

Roof, seals and sealant

Get a ladder and inspect the roof directly. Cracked, perished or peeling sealant around the roof edges, vents, hatches, aerials and air-conditioner is the most common entry point for water. Check that previous resealing looks tidy, not like a panicked patch-up.

Windows and hatches

Open and close every window and roof hatch. Look for cracked acrylic, perished rubber seals, crazing and signs of leaks in the surrounding panels. Hatch handles and winders should operate smoothly and lock shut.

Checkerplate and corrosion

Inspect the front checkerplate, stone guard and lower panels for dents, lifting edges and corrosion. On coastal or older vans, look closely for aluminium oxidation and rust bleeding through fasteners.

Chassis and running gear

This is the part that keeps the van safely behind your car at highway speed. Get underneath with a torch or, better still, take the van to a mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection.

• Chassis rust: surface rust is common, but flaking, scaling or rust on welds and structural members is a deal-breaker.
• Suspension: check for cracked welds, worn bushes and uneven ride height; independent and leaf systems should sit level.
• Springs and shackles: look for sagging, cracked leaves or seized shackle pins.
• A-frame and drawbar: inspect for rust, cracks or signs of a repaired impact at the front.
• Coupling and jockey wheel: the hitch should move freely and lock positively; the jockey wheel should wind up and down smoothly.
• Brakes: electric or override brakes should engage; test them on a short tow if possible and ask when they were last serviced.
• Wheel bearings: rock each wheel and listen for play or roughness; ask for proof of recent bearing servicing.
• Tyres and spare: check the tread, sidewall cracking and the date stamp — caravan tyres often perish from age before they wear out, and a van that sits unused for years may need replacements. Confirm the spare is present and serviceable.

Weights and towing legality

This section is critical and legal. Towing a van that is too heavy for your vehicle is dangerous, can void your insurance and may leave you liable in a crash. You must understand the key weights and confirm they suit your tow vehicle before you buy.

• Tare: the weight of the empty van as it left the factory, with no water, gas or gear.
• ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass): the maximum total weight of the fully loaded van when it is uncoupled — Tare plus everything you load in.
• GTM (Gross Trailer Mass): the maximum weight carried on the van's own axles when coupled to the car, i.e. ATM minus the towball download.
• Payload: ATM minus Tare — how much water, gas, food and gear you can legally carry. A small payload on a heavy van is a real problem.

Now match those figures to your car. Check your tow vehicle's maximum braked towing capacity and its towball download (TBD) limit — the van's ATM must not exceed your car's towing capacity, and the van's ball weight (typically around 10% of ATM) must not exceed your car's towball limit. Also confirm the combined load stays within your vehicle's GCM (Gross Combination Mass). If the numbers don't add up, the van is the wrong match no matter how nice it looks. A current weighbridge ticket is gold — it tells you what the van actually weighs today, not just the plate figures.

Inside the van

Step inside and inspect with the same suspicion you used outside. Interiors hide leaks well.

• Open every cupboard and locker and check the corners, especially under windows, for water stains, swelling or soft timber.
• Walk the full floor slowly and feel for soft spots, sponginess or movement that signal rot or delamination.
• Check upholstery, curtains and mattresses for mould spotting, damp and wear.
• Lift the bed bases and seat squabs to inspect storage areas and the floor beneath.
• Note any lingering damp or mouldy odour — interiors should smell dry and clean.

Appliances and systems

Ask the seller to have the van connected to power, water and gas so you can test everything live. A system that is "just needs a part" often hides a bigger fault.

• Gas system and compliance: ask for a current gas certificate. Check the regulator, hoses and connections for age and leaks, and confirm the gas compliance plate is present. Many states require a gas certificate to register or transfer a van.
• 12V electrics: test interior lights, fans, water pump and any control panel; confirm the DC system holds and charges.
• 240V electrics: plug into mains, check power points, the RCD and circuit breakers, and any 240V appliances.
• Battery and solar: check the house battery's age and condition, and confirm solar panels are charging via the regulator display.
• Water pump and tanks: fill the tanks, run the pump, and check every tap, the toilet and the shower for flow and leaks.
• Fridge: run it on both gas and electric (and 12V if fitted) — three-way fridges must cool on every mode.
• Hot water: test the hot water service on gas and electric and confirm it actually heats.
• Air-conditioner and heater: run the air-con through cool and the diesel or gas heater if fitted, listening for noise and checking output.

Paperwork

Finally, confirm the documents stack up before any money changes hands.

• Registration: check it is current and that the seller's name matches the rego papers and their ID.
• VIN and chassis match: the VIN on the compliance plate, the chassis stamp and the PPSR report must all agree.
• Service history: look for receipts for bearing packs, brake servicing, tyres and any repairs.
• Gas certificate: obtain a current one, as some states require it for transfer.
• Weighbridge docs: a recent weighbridge ticket confirms the real weight and helps your towing-legality check.
• Get a signed receipt with the price, date, VIN and both parties' details.

Caravans and cars demand very different inspections, so if you are weighing up your options, buying a car instead? use this checklist for a vehicle-specific walkthrough.

Ready to start your search?

Armed with this checklist, you can inspect any second hand caravan like a seasoned buyer and avoid the costly traps. When you find one worth a closer look, do your homework, test everything and confirm the weights suit your tow vehicle. Browse caravans for sale on Prime Vehicles Hub to find your next van across Australia.