Before buying a used car in Australia, check the body for rust and mismatched paint, inspect the engine bay for leaks, test every electrical feature, run a thorough test drive, and confirm the rego, VIN and service history all match. Always run a PPSR check, and for anything over a few thousand dollars, pay $150–$300 for a professional pre-purchase inspection.
Why a used car checklist matters
Buying a second hand car is one of the bigger purchases most Australians make, and unlike a new car there's no warranty safety net by default. A faulty gearbox or hidden accident damage can cost thousands to put right. Working through a structured used car inspection checklist turns a nervous gut-feel decision into a methodical process, so you spot problems before you pay rather than after.
This guide walks you through more than 40 checkable items, grouped by where you'll be looking. Print it, save it to your phone, or keep it open while you inspect. If you're still shortlisting, you can browse used cars on Prime Vehicles Hub to compare prices and conditions in your area first.
Before you go: research and paperwork prep
Half the work happens before you ever lay eyes on the car. Knowing the model's common faults and the fair market price stops a smooth-talking seller from steering you wrong.
Set your budget and research
- Set a firm maximum budget, including stamp duty, transfer fees and any insurance.
- Research the make and model's known issues, recalls and typical running costs.
- Check comparable listings to learn the fair market price for the year and kilometres.
- Budget a buffer for tyres, a service or minor repairs soon after purchase.
Check the car's history
- Run a PPSR check using the VIN to confirm there's no money owing, no write-off record and the car isn't reported stolen.
- Confirm the registration is current and ask how long it has left.
- Ask the seller for the service history and logbook before you arrive.
- Always inspect in daylight and dry weather — rain and darkness hide a lot.
For a step-by-step walkthrough, see our guide on how to run a PPSR check before you buy — it's the single most important thing you can do to avoid inheriting someone else's debt.
Exterior and body
Walk a slow lap of the car. Body issues often reveal a past accident or neglect that the seller would rather you didn't notice.
Panels, paint and rust
- Check that panel gaps are even and consistent on both sides — uneven gaps suggest crash repairs.
- Look down the side of the car in good light for ripples, dents or wavy reflections.
- Check for paint overspray on rubber seals, trim and window edges — a sign of respray work.
- Compare paint colour and texture between panels for mismatched shades.
- Inspect for rust around wheel arches, door sills, the boot floor and under floor mats.
- Open and close every door, the bonnet and the boot to confirm they sit and latch properly.
Tyres, wheels and glass
- Measure tread depth — the legal minimum in Australia is 1.5mm across the tyre.
- Check the tyre's age via the date code on the sidewall; tyres over 5–6 years harden regardless of tread.
- Look for uneven or one-sided wear, which points to suspension or wheel alignment problems.
- Confirm all four tyres (and ideally the spare) are a matching, reputable brand.
- Inspect the windscreen and windows for chips or cracks that could fail a roadworthy.
- Check headlights, tail-lights and indicator lenses for cracks or water inside.
Under the bonnet
You don't need to be a mechanic — most engine-bay red flags are visible to anyone who knows where to look. Do this with the engine cold if possible.
- Pull the oil dipstick: the oil should be amber-to-brown, not milky, gritty or black.
- Check the coolant level and colour; brown or oily coolant can signal a head gasket issue.
- Look under the engine and on the ground for oil, coolant or transmission fluid leaks.
- Inspect drive belts and hoses for cracks, fraying or perishing.
- Check the battery for corrosion on the terminals and ask its age.
- Scan for signs of recent steam-cleaning, which can be used to hide leaks.
- Look for mismatched or non-original parts that hint at past repairs.
Interior and electrics
A tidy cabin is reassuring, but you're really testing whether everything actually works. Sit in the car and methodically run through every feature.
Cabin condition
- Check seats, carpets and headlining for excessive wear, tears or a damp, musty smell.
- Look and smell for signs of water damage or past flooding, especially under the carpets.
- Confirm the odometer reading looks consistent with the car's age and wear.
- Make sure you receive two keys (or note the cost of a replacement if not).
Electrics and features
- Turn the ignition to "on" and check that warning lights illuminate then clear — a missing engine light can mean a hidden fault.
- Test the air conditioning and heating; the aircon should blow genuinely cold within a minute.
- Operate every window, mirror, central locking and sunroof.
- Test the infotainment, Bluetooth, reversing camera, sensors and all speakers.
- Check interior and dashboard lights, indicators, wipers and the horn.
The test drive checklist
This is where mechanical problems give themselves away. A proper test drive for a used car should last at least 15–20 minutes and include a mix of suburban streets and higher-speed roads.
Starting and moving off
- Start the car from cold and watch the exhaust — blue smoke means burning oil, white means coolant.
- Listen for rattles, knocks, ticking or rough idle the moment it starts.
- Confirm the clutch (manual) bites smoothly and isn't slipping, or that an auto shifts cleanly without jerking.
On the road
- Test the brakes firmly — the car should stop straight without pulling, grinding or pulsating.
- Check the steering is responsive and doesn't pull to one side on a straight, level road.
- Run through every gear and feel for hesitation, slipping or harsh changes.
- Listen for clunks over bumps that suggest worn suspension or bushes.
- Accelerate firmly to check the engine pulls cleanly without hesitation or excessive noise.
- Take your hands briefly off the wheel on a quiet straight to check it tracks true.
- Turn off the radio so you can hear what the car is telling you.
Paperwork and the seller
The car can be perfect, but a paperwork mismatch can leave you unable to register it — or worse, having bought a stolen vehicle.
- Match the VIN on the car (windscreen, door jamb, engine bay) to the VIN on the registration papers and PPSR certificate.
- Confirm the engine and compliance plate details are intact and not tampered with.
- Verify the seller's photo ID matches the name on the registration document.
- Insist on inspecting and buying at the seller's home address, not a car park.
- Review the service history for regular, logbook-stamped servicing.
- Get a receipt with the seller's name, address, the date, price, VIN and rego.
- Be wary of any seller who refuses a PPSR check, an inspection or rushes you.
When to get a professional pre-purchase inspection
If the car passes your own checks and you're seriously interested, a professional pre-purchase inspection is the smartest money you'll spend. A qualified mechanic puts the car on a hoist and uses diagnostic tools to find what an enthusiastic buyer simply can't.
What it costs and what you get
- A pre-purchase inspection cost in Australia typically runs $150–$300, depending on the depth of the check and your location.
- Mobile mechanics and state motoring bodies (like the NRMA, RACV or RACQ) both offer the service.
- You receive a written report covering mechanical condition, safety items and an estimate of upcoming repairs.
- That report is also powerful negotiating leverage on price.
Get one for any car worth a few thousand dollars or more, anything that's high-kilometre, or whenever something in your own inspection felt off. A few hundred dollars now can save you thousands later — and if you're on the other side of the deal, selling instead? here's how to do it properly.
Ready to start your search?
Armed with this checklist, you can inspect any used car with confidence and walk away from the wrong ones without second-guessing yourself. When you're ready to find your next vehicle, browse used cars on Prime Vehicles Hub to compare listings from private sellers and dealers right across Australia — then put every car you shortlist through these 40-plus checks before you buy.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I check when buying a used car?+
Work methodically through the body for rust and mismatched paint, the engine bay for leaks, the interior electrics, and a full test drive covering brakes, steering and gears. Then confirm the rego, VIN and service history match, and always run a PPSR check before paying.
How much does a pre-purchase car inspection cost in Australia?+
A professional pre-purchase inspection in Australia typically costs between $150 and $300. Mobile mechanics and state motoring bodies such as the NRMA, RACV and RACQ all offer the service, providing a written report on the car's mechanical condition, safety and any upcoming repairs.
Is it safe to buy a used car privately?+
Yes, buying privately is safe if you take precautions. Always run a PPSR check to confirm no money is owing, match the seller's ID to the registration, inspect at their home address, and get a professional inspection. Private sales are often cheaper but carry no statutory warranty.
What is a PPSR check and do I need one?+
A PPSR check searches the Personal Property Securities Register using the car's VIN. It reveals whether money is owing on the vehicle, if it's been written off, or reported stolen. Yes, you need one — buying a car with finance owing means the lender can repossess it.
How long should a used car test drive be?+
Aim for at least 15 to 20 minutes over a mix of suburban streets and higher-speed roads. Start the car from cold, turn off the radio, and test the brakes, steering, every gear and acceleration. This length gives the engine and transmission time to reveal any faults.
Ready to buy or sell?
Join thousands of Australians buying and selling cars, bikes, boats, caravans and more on Prime Vehicles Hub.

